26 April: Walking to Balkara Ridge, Paudwar, Nepal

26 April

We were asked to get up at 6am to walk to the Balkara ridge, apparently it is 2 hours away. It is called Balkara or Balukara.  Not sure which is the right pronunciation.

Peter mentioned the need to let someone know where we were going and directions. He had been there before with Pat and another time without her. So he had an idea. Bhim who is a Nepalese friend of Peter dropped in the night before and brought potatoes and an offer of a guide but that was declined.

So we headed off after breakfast. I was still not well and with period so it is not easy but I went along as I will never come back again. It was a nice day and we walked gently through the village past little plots, people popping up tending their gardens. I noted Peter at 76 and Pat at 69 walking along, I am impressed by their determination but do wonder how their health is. Pat is wise to just pace herself and go slow supported by her skiing poles. I think some young people would struggle with the walk.

We walked along and walked up stone steps and felt the steepness of the mountain. Gordon was his usual cheerful self. We walked on up and saw great views of Ghara and the Khebung village to the north. It was amazing to find ourselves up in the mountains and I was wondering what it would be like on the ridge. We ended up on a forest trail and I enjoyed the bush getting thicker and the trees twisting and aged. The trail was not a strong trail (this is a word Gordon said which I interpreted as not a main track but light and little used. I am not a bushwalker so I am not that familiar with trails and where to walk. Gordon seemed to know what he was doing and did some reconnaissance to find stronger tracks (well used). Peter was quiet for a while but we realised he wasn’t sure where the track was. Pat was also unsure and there was some discussion between them. She recalled a salt lick and open space and indicated they walked around, like a crescent shape. Peter didn’t say much but felt we were going the wrong way. So Gordon, moving up and down like a mountain goat, had a scout around for a stronger track. No one got upset which was good and we ended up stopping to rest. Peter and Pat had a lie down. Gordon yelled out that he had found a village person. After a while we worked our way back up the mountain. I think Peter was very tired. I was as well but was relieved to see a village woman. Her name was Bina she was Bhim’s daughter. Apparently Krishna had sent her to go and find us. His instincts were right. They have lived in this area all their lives, a few times is not much from our end and easy to get lost. We were not totally lost as Peter did know the way back but the reality was we were unable to find the main track. With Bina there it appears we are back on track, we were able to continue on. Our diversion in the forest took up 1.5 hours and that did prevent us from reaching the ridge. It wasn’t the best weather for looking at the Himalayas unfortunately, so we may not have seen anything anyway. I was mindful of my own tiredness and sickness and aware I had to walk back to Ghara the next day, so I was keen not to exhaust myself. It has been an exhausting trip but I am doing my best to keep on. We did walk on for another ¾ hour but decided to turn back as Pat and Peter were lying down resting further down the mountain. We also considered the weather and realised it had been storming around 4pm every day. We will get caught in a down pour. So we made the sensible decision and turned back.

We walked back down the track past little creeks looking back on the mountains and forest. Bina was a kind and considerate guide. We caught up with Pat and Peter, who I am sure were very tired. They bravely got up and continued their walk with us back to Paudwar. We all felt tired but made the descent. Peter and Pat worked out where they took the wrong turn, I am sure it won’t happen again if Peter decides to go to the ridge. I believe that everything happens for a reason so in truth there are no wrong turns or mistakes, life is just unfolding in ways that may not fit in with our expectations. I am learning to just go with the flow.

I particularly loved walking down the track over the mica rocks that look like pavements of gold and silver sparkling the path. I see the metaphor of a path paved with gold – the gold of new experiences, the gold of joy, the gold of abundance that surrounds us. There was quartz crystal scattered across the path that was glittering in the sunlight. I always think of the earth energised by crystals and sense they are some form of conduit for the suns energy. They hold the energy in the soils I suspect.

We said goodbye to Bina at a little creek and thanked her for her help. Apparently her family lives to the north of the village. We walked into the village and Gordon stated he would go looking for beer. I hesitated but felt it was an opportunity to see some of the village, as I was planning to leave the next day for Ghara. So with the little energy I had we walked up the stone steps in search of a small shop that stocks beer. We walked up the stairs and did try and get directions, we didn’t find it up there and ended up returning to the same tea house we went to on the first day. Gordon wanted two so she sent for another bottle. She herself chased her son who was off to get the beer.

Now I am writing by candle light and Pat brought in potatoes and eggs scrambled. We have cheese from the cheese factory, beer, candles (power out) and a chill in the air. Life is wonderful.

I am off to Ghara tomorrow for the teacher training sessions.

Mohandas Gandhi

“Nobody can hurt me without my permission.”

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