19 April: Pokhara, Nepal

19 April – Pokhara

I slept in which these days is to 8.30am. I noticed there was no-one around from the group so decided to have breakfast. Wasn’t sure where I could have it. I started to walk to the tourist area and this guy starts to walk with me asking me where I am from I said ‘Australia’, I said ‘where are you from’ he said Kashmir. I told him I’d been to Srinagar and have a friend there. We talked about the situation which he tells me has calmed. That was good news. As we walked he took me to his carpet shop. I found out on the way that he knew a friend of mine, a journalist in Srinagar. We were amazed that we knew someone in common. Imagine the chances in this part of the world.  He said he had her number and I asked for it.  He gave me her number, this was great as I couldn’t get her by email. I spoke to this man and his friend in his Kashmir shop. They kindly brought in tea and we talked about peace and happiness. We had a great conversation. Peter rang and said they were having breakfast back at Pun Hill Guesthouse. They waited for me and I joined them for breakfast.

I then walked with Gordon to the tourist area, I introduced him to the Kashmiri guys and we all chatted. I then went on to the ‘Black and White’ organic cafe for coffee and I worked on my peace education program. I started my work and then Gordon came, I knew I would have to do it later. I always put people before my work, as I trust life as it turns up. We had lunch and then headed for the boats.  We had talked about having a fun boat ride.

We got down to the boats and there was the boat guy there, he was charging 650 rupees ($6.50) I think for a boat for 2 hours. We then met a couple from Singapore who had been trekking they were heading up to the World Peace pagoda. I felt to go with them. So we ended up getting the boat for 530 rupees and a boat driver going one way. We headed over to the other side enjoying the views of the small island with a temple in the middle of the river and the forested mountains on the other side of the river (like a lake). We arrived at the other side, thanked the driver and we started walking up the stairs. We met some more Singaporean people who walked with us. We bought some water and caught up to our friends.  We found ourselves slowing way down behind our mountain climbing Singaporeans and ended up chatting with people on the way. We had a nice chat with a couple, one was into studying corruption the other started a landscaping business in Singapore. The other couple worked in Singapore and had a few weeks holiday.

As we walked up the mountain we met some Nepalese people, they took photos. I put my foot in cow dung, everyone laughed (there was a lot of it). We moved on and met some Nepalese young people aged 18 and 15. We sat resting with them. I suggested they sing a song given one of the guys loved singing. The other guy was very shy. Some Chinese tourists were coming down the mountain and I asked if they wanted to hear some singing. Gordon started with a song and then this young Nepalese guy decided to sing a traditional song.  I was proud of him as he was shy and his friend slunk away. The audience below us clapped happily and with encouragement. I said ‘this is world peace’, to everyone, it seemed fitting given the Chinese folks had been to the World Peace pagoda.  See YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIzQcde7XgM

We continued on and met some German people and an American. It turns out the American was working in Bangladesh and involved in security (US intelligence community), I suggested to him the teaching of values and peace education to de-escalate fear. I don’t know if he was interested. He told me he had been in China a few years. I thought about the security picture and the need to monitor others rather than change the current paradigm of competition, corruption and power into a world where cooperation is valued.  What I know is important is to decide what type of world you want, rather than what you don’t want, whereby we seek to find ways to build friendship and understanding and to help each other as a kindness. It seems like another world I am imagining, which indeed it is. We all stood there on the mountain and with another 12 local Nepalese and they took photos. After some time the German people and the American left, we wished them happiness.

We continued on and met an English woman and a European guy. We joked with them and had a nice conversation about where they were from and where they had been. They were very positive and enjoying the chat. It gave us a break as well, as it was steep stone stairs and I found myself non-stop puffing.  Yes I was unfit.

We continued on and we met up with our Singaporean friends, the others went down to the Tibetan refugee camp. We walked up towards the World Peace pagoda. The views of Pokhara were incredible. I didn’t realise Pokhara was so big. It spread across a valley overshadowed by green mountains and behind that, the Himalayan mountains. We were told Annapurna was the mountain behind. I was shocked to see snow on the mountains. It was so exciting. We walked up the footpath which had prayer flags lining it and contrasted by green grass. You could see both sides of Pokhara, terraced mountains on one side and suburbia on the other. There were floodplains on the other side and you could see a beach outlining the lake. The clouds started storming and some lighting was flickering across the sky. Rain droplets were smattering but only intermittently threatening to storm down. It was a dynamic energy charged atmosphere.

We walked around the World Peace Pagoda and looked at the large golden Buddha that formed the centrepiece. I thought of the reality of world peace in our discussions as we walked up the hill, I reflected on the fact that it can never be housed in a monument. We walked around and I recorded a video message about peace.  Gordon and I then walked down to the cafe. We had a chat with more Nepalese and discovered more about them. We then walked on and had a photo and a hug with some Nepalese ladies. It was so nice to feel the peace and joy.  Here is some video of my reflections at the World Peace pagoda in Pokhara https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qrzqi_Lz-oA

We sat in the open air café and joined our Singaporean friends. We met another lady from Czech Republic sitting with her partner. I invited them to catch a taxi with us. I then encouraged her and her partner to join us. They told us they were off to India. She looked very bohemian and he was a very friendly guy, he told me he liked meditating in the dark and had visions. Then another lady turned up from Bosnia. She had shining eyes and full of life. She was having a wonderful time and had a very positive aura. She chatted about her perspective of peace with me and indicated she was interested in earth changes and sending love to the world. She believed there were going to be big changes in consciousness.  She was a very nice woman, a real networker and unifier of people. She chatted with everyone in that spirit of unity. Gordon was lovely telling stories and joking around. He sung some songs which apparently brought tears to the Czech lady.  He is another unifier.

We were instructed to walk down the hill as the taxis would turn up.  Two taxi’s turned up and informed us they wanted to charge 1,000 rupees each for the two taxi’s. The guy who organised it lied saying we had agreed, which we hadn’t, I said 500. I was firm about that. We did negotiate two taxi’s one for 300 rupees and we would pay 500 rupees for the other (to meet in the middle), so they would get 800 (only 200 rupees less). They wouldn’t go there and we decided to walk. I felt it may be a good lesson for them.  The price was well over what they charge locals and I didn’t want them to think all westerners were an easy hit.  I was tired but principle was more important that a rest in the taxi.

We all walked, it was stony and undulating as we descended down the mountain.  We then eventually came to a dirt road. We chatted in little groups and exchanged information about our lives. It was lovely to walk down hill. We got to the bottom and spotted a taxi. We were told on the mountain that the police would fine the driver if the taxi was overloaded (which is why they insisted on two taxi’s). Down the mountain he said he would just add on the fine. He charged 600 rupees for all of us (400 less), just over 100 each, which was acceptable to us. It was interesting to see the exploitation of westerners, but I had to reflect on our exploitation of the third world and clearly saw a mirror. I wondered at how we could heal this and help each other honestly and stop the corruption. It is not healthy nor is it world peace to exploit anyone. I felt the same with the Tibetan refugees.  I recognise they are poor and life is difficult but no person owes anyone, I believe in fairness and it has never left me on my travels around the world.  I don’t mind giving extra to reward honesty, but not to allow exploitation because I am white and people believe I am an ATM.  In my reality I don’t have a lot of money and I am not here to support them, I’d rather empower them with my skills. I don’t think the money does much other than moment to moment survival.  What do they say don’t give a fish but teach a person to fish for their own living.  There is great wisdom in that thought. The teacher training that LEARN is doing is helping them to be empowered with English and education so they can determine their future rather than others exploiting them.

We parted from our friends all squashed in the taxi, we all felt very connected.  Gordon and I were in the touristy area and he said he had to pick up his washing from the Kashmiri guys.  He did so and we went back to the hotel and saw Peter there.  He organised us for dinner, Kailash was there and we headed for dinner. We went to the same restaurant with the dancers but I really needed quiet. I do find the talking too much at times as I am quite tired and I am not able to observe silently. I am used to being alone, so I have to adjust. I try to go with the flow and just be with what is.  I did find the noise at the restaurant quite loud, but going with the flow is the way of it.

I did have a debate with Peter about industrialisation. I really just wanted to challenge the idea of the western system or even us knowing better than the Nepalese. I was realising as I was speaking the importance of listening to the people. Even with my work in peace. Peter challenged me about the impact my work is making. I was grateful at the time and on reflection. I do not want to go in unquestioningly. I want to question my work as well, is it of service or do I believe I know better? The Nepalese know harmony better than I and Kailash demonstrated it by contrast. He said they tend to let things go. That works if it is truly let go, if there is any resentment then it adds to resistance. I remembered my ex-partner from Afghanistan who also sought harmony over contention, although at times he would challenge Islam, he spoke his truth. I think the clashes of belief are healthy as long as it is done with respect.  I can come over strong but I am listening for truth.  I feel much faith has been put into economics and I feel it is clear it is collapsing.  So are we teaching to validate the system or are we teaching emotional intelligence, problem solving and values to formulate a new way of seeing and hopefully a new future sustainable society.  I sense that Peter was acutely aware of the concern and we may have misunderstood the intention of each other.  As a result of the little tension we experienced I reflected in that moment on listening more as the conversation went on. I am for respect of others.

I see a world sinking under consumption, more people drifting to cities. I wondered about problem solving, do we really focus on the right problems or in our helping do we just encourage something that is not really going to serve the people. I did question the idea of greed, what is it? I asked in our own selves can we see greed. I revealed my greed honestly as ‘wanting more than I need.’ I have eaten more on occasion because someone is paying and I am not used to having my needs fully met. I did take a personal reflection that perhaps my own beliefs are too strong and passionate, and the delivery of those beliefs, being careful not to be too forceful where others feel defensive.  I questioned within myself how I affect others? Should I tone that down and not be so intense? Can I sit and just share ideas without debate but sharing contrasts? Do I simply look at my own inner reactions to discover what the situation is teaching me about myself?  This is all the work of peace, so that is something I will give more thought to as my desire is to truly serve and every person is my teacher.

We are off to the village of Beni tomorrow in Western Nepal. Teacher training starts next Wednesday. So I have to speak with our Nepalese teachers to find out how I can be of service to the teachers and children. More listening is the first place to start. Seek first to understand and then be understood. Is a wise statement of Stephen Covey.

Anyway, signing off, my legs are tired and I had a lovely day.

Peace to you, all ways.